Nearshore wave transformation table (Dutch coast)


The Wave Transformation Table is a look-up table to quickly obtain elementary wave parameters (i.e. significant wave height, peak period and direction) nearshore. This information can be relevant to any type of coastal and offshore engineering or marine ecology study in which waves are important, especially if nearby wave measurements are missing, too expensive or too time-consuming. The tool is available both as a web application and as a Matlab application. The look-up table only covers the Holland Coast, but in principle the technique can be applied to nearshore areas anywhere in the world (provided that sufficiently long offshore wave time series are available).

Building with Nature interest

The tool is especially applicable in the Planning and Design Phase of a coastal engineering project as part of the data analysis or as input for numerical models. The wave time series can be used both to study situations in the past and to derive wave boundary conditions (wave climates) for predictive modelling efforts. The Wave Transformation Table was initially meant to quickly obtain nearshore wave characteristics for research and monitoring of the Sand nourishment – Sand Engine Delfland, North Sea, NL, as there were initially no wave buoys installed to obtain the nearshore conditions from. The Wave Table can be of use to engineers, ecologists and other scientists active on the beach or the foreshore. The tool allows users to obtain time series of basic spectral wave parameters (i.e. significant wave height, peak wave period and wave direction) on any location near a coast (presently only the Holland Coast). This can be useful information when nearshore measurements are lacking, too expensive or too time-consuming. In principle, the technique underlying the tool can be applied to any coast, provided that sufficiently long offshore wave time series are available.